Nan Province

Nan Province
Nan is one of Thailand's most isolated provinces, covered in thick forested mountains and endowed with rich river valleys. The province is sandwiched between Chiang Rai and Phrae provinces to the west and Laos to the east. Most of the inhabitants are involved in agriculture, growing beans, corn, sticky rice and tobacco in the fertile river plains. Ethnic tribes dwell on the hillside around the Nan River valley; predominately Mien, with smaller groups of Hmong. There is also a presence of lesser known hill tribes that only reside in this region, like the Thai Lü, Khamu and Htin and a small nomadic group known as 'The People of the Yellow Leaves' who move on when their huts made of green leaves turn yellow.
The provincial capital of Nan is situated on the banks of the River Nan - the third longest river in Thailand at 627 km. It was once the centre of an independent kingdom that had little association with its neighbours. In the mid 13th century, gathered together with several other small states, the more powerful Nanthaburi was formed. An association with the Sukhothai kingdom was formed, but its remoteness allowed the state a considerable amount of independence. In the latter part of the 14th century it became a principality of the northern Lanna Thai kingdom and continued to flourish through to the 15th century. However, in 1587 the Burmese wrestled control of the kingdom, transporting many of the inhabitants to Burma to become slaves. Nan became barren and all but abandoned up until the end of the 18th century.
The historic figure of King Taksin, who re-trouped the Thai army and reclaimed the northern lands after the destruction of Ayutthaya, also wrestled the kingdom from the Burmese. Although it then came under the control of the Thai kingdom, it once again had more or less full independence. It was not until 1931 that it came under complete compliance with Bangkok rule. This was stretched in the 1970's when the region became a bastion for the communist insurgents.

Places of Attraction

Wat Phumin
The most famous temple in Nan, it is noted for its unusual cruciform bot/viharn, which is surrounded by bei sema (boundary stones marking consecrated ground) and acts as both bot and viharn. It was constructed in 1596, but was restored extensively between 1865 and 1873. The interior walls of the viharn are adorned with interesting murals, depicting the Khatta Kumara and Nimi jatakas, along with scenes of the lifestyle of the period, painted by Thai Lü artists during restoration.

Wat Phra
That Chae HaengThe temple is situated 2km southeast of town, just beyond the bridge spanning the river. Perfectly poised on a hill overlooking Nan, it was built in 1355 and is the most revered in Nan. The bot has an interesting Thai Lü influenced tripled-tier roof with beautifully carved wooden eaves. Next to the bot is a Lanna style gilded chedi standing 55 m high. An annual celebration takes place here on the full moon day of the first lunar month, with processions and a firework display.

Wat Phrathat Chang Kham
The founding date of this temple has not been established, but is believed to have been around the same time as the 14th century chedi. The chedi is supported by elephant buttresses, seven on each side, in the Sukhothai style. The viharn, which was built in 1547, contains three Sukhothai style Buddha images - two walking and one standing.

National Museum
This building on Phakong Rd was once the home of Nan's royal family. Opened in 1973, the museum has an impressive collection, with many items having a labelled description in English. The ground floor is a collection of silverware, utensils, textiles and tribal costumes covering the ethnic groups that can be found in the region. The second floor is allocated to exhibits on Nan history, archaeological finds, royal regalia and religious art.

Wat Hua Khuang
This small wat is located on the corner of Mahaphrom and Phakong roads. The Lanna/Lan Xang style chedi contains four Buddha images, all in the attitude of vanquishing Mara. There is an impressive two-storey tripitaka library and the bot has a Luang Prabang style wooden verandah.

Wat Suan Tan
Located in the north west of the city along Phakong Rd. The wat features a 15th century chedi with prang and Sukhothai style lotus bud motifs. The viharn contains a 15th century bronze sitting Buddha image named Phra Chao Thong Thit.

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